Starting in Apollo Bay and covering approximately 100km, the Great Ocean Walk is considered one of Australia’s most iconic multi-day walks. Finishing at the Twelve Apostles, this spectacular and varied trail winds through tall forests, coastal heathland, and rugged cliff tops. With stunning views up and down Victoria’s southern coastline and each walking day promising something new and different, it is an unmatched and unique way to experience Great Otway and Port Campbell National Parks.
You may have driven the Great Ocean Road, a beautiful and accessible alternative to access this coastline. However, the Great Ocean Walk is in a league of its own and offers an entirely immersive experience.
Divided into sections, the Great Ocean Walk is well-signed, and Parks Victoria does an excellent job maintaining the track and encroaching foliage. With a good fitness level, it can be enjoyed as independent day walks, an eight-day pack-carrying through-hike, or a supported end-to-end experience with a tour operator like Big Heart Adventures. Inclusive of trail transfers, fully qualified guides, a hot shower, comfy bed and a hearty meal awaiting you at the day’s end, it’s hard to go past choosing the latter option!!
Keen to know more? Here are some trail notes from our March 2025 Great Ocean Walk Adventure…
Day 1 – Budj Bim National Park & Port Fairy
It was a balmy pre-dawn start as we drove out of Adelaide aboard the fully loaded Big Heart Bus. Up the freeway, down through the southeast, and towards the Victorian border. Budj Bim National Park was where we were headed for today’s highlight, and as we neared the turn-off, the warm start turned chilly and wet. The welcome rain seeped into the parched earth – it’s been months since we had any decent rain! Surrounding us was a heady fragrance of fresh, moist air and an almost audible sigh of relief as Country drank what it could.
The sacred peacefulness of Budj Bim filled us. And wow, what an absolutely brilliant cultural tour we had learning about eel farming, smoking trees, and one of the world’s oldest aquaculture systems, developed by the Gundjitmara People and dating back tens of thousands of years. Our Gundjitmara guide, Reuben, was so patient and generous with his knowledge and sharing of stories.
We discovered how the lava flow enabled his ancestors to create channels, dams and weirs – a means to direct the water and, therefore, trap, store and harvest kooyang (the Gundjitmara word for eel). They farmed sustainably, taking only what was needed for food and trade and developed preservation methods using nearby smoking trees. All of it connected and so fascinating and inspiring!
From Budj Bim, it was on to Port Fairy for the night. Dinner was at the pub across the road, and the very early start had our weary bodies heading straight to bed.
Tomorrow would be our first day on the trail.
Day 2 – Apollo Bay to Shelly Beach (approx. 10km)
Today, our Great Ocean Walk Adventure began! Leaving Port Fairy, we took the scenic route along the Great Ocean Road, arriving in Apollo Bay for a fresh and healthy lunch. From the bustling trailhead at the Visitor’s Centre, it was time to break away from the crowds and follow the coastline towards Shelly Beach.
A comfortable start for our first day of walking – approximately 10km (depending on which device you go by). An afternoon of striking coastal views looking out over the Southern Ocean churning against the cliffs. Bracken dominated areas of heathland, then towering Mountain Ash eucalypts with a fern understory. A meandering trail that was sometimes sandy, sometimes firm and compact, and other times the damp, soft footfall of a forest floor. Bliss!
We enjoyed a mindful pause to ground ourselves in this present moment. This time, this space, this place. To connect with nature and our surroundings. We smelled the scents from yesterday’s rain and felt the ocean breeze on our faces as it cleared away the driving hours. The mosses, some fungi, waves crashing, trees whispering, and a cool, calm, and collected koala hanging out so close we could have touched it. Our furry companion patiently waited for us humans to stop gawking so he or she could go back to their daydreaming. Great Otway National Park and the Great Ocean Walk – what a place to call home!
With Lisa meeting us at the pick-up location, we returned to Apollo Bay, where our cabins at the Big 4 awaited and a yummy dinner was soon served. It was a perfect day with perfect walking weather – not cold, not hot, patchy clouds, and happy hikers!
Tomorrow morning, we will return to Shelly Beach and continue walking 21km (approx) to Port Franklin. Now it’s time for sleep ahead of a big day.
Day 3 – Shelly Beach to Point Franklin (approx. 20km)
WOW! What a day. It is about a 20km walk from Shelly Beach to Port Franklin along a beautifully varied trail. The terrain is mostly undulating, with one almighty steep climb up from Parker Inlet near the day’s end. My goodness, did that one test us! But we triumphantly made it to the top together.
We couldn’t fault the weather. Mother Nature turned on sunshine with a light breeze when needed most. The cool morning quickly led to de-layering as we wandered through a forest thick with more Mountain Ash. These soaring majestic trees are the tallest flowering plants in the world, and walking among them was absolutely marvellous. How privileged we felt to be in their presence. Their ancient wisdom leading the way.
The Mountain Ash and coastal heath blended into the rainforest as we turned more inland. In her waning phase, the moon stayed up throughout the day, peaking through gaps in the canopy above. Looking down upon us as we enjoyed the damp forest floor, thick with leaf fall and feeling soft beneath our feet. The morning sunlight filtered through and cast a gentle, ethereal glow, catching upon fern fonds and bark in ways that took your breath away. The serene peacefulness settled into a mindful, active meditation as we walked, unintentionally silent. Each of us fully immersed in the beauty of Gulidjan and Gadubanud country and Great Otway National Park.
As the serenade of birdsong was drowned out by crashing waves, the forest opened to the coast again and down onto the sand of secluded bays. We followed Colleen or Kirstie, our Big Heart leaders, taking turns at the front or rear. And so our day continued, with lunch at Blanket Bay and a delightful opportunity to unlace our boots and soak our heated feet in pools by the ocean.
Fed hydrated and revived, Stringybark Forest cradled our steps, one after another. Working our way through the trees again, we came to a spectacular vantage point, high up and sheltered so we could admire the rugged coastline and the secluded bay below. Then, a steep descent onto the sand to fully breathe in the scent of the ocean and wander over the cocoon this intimate spot cradled us in. This was Parker Inlet, and to follow the steep descent at one end, an even steeper ascent waited for us at the other. The only way forward was up! Our Great Ocean Walk beckoned us on.
We were nearly there, just a couple more kilometres, and we would see Lisa’s beaming face greeting us with the Big Heart Bus hidden behind trees. What a welcome sight! If we had to describe today in just one word, that would be AWE! Awe over this land, Awe over Mother Nature, Awe over the animals and critters of which there were many – echidna (2!!), a marsupial rat (perhaps a Swamp Antechinus or a Broad-toothed?), a superb blue fairy wren, and a little lizard with the most striking metallic skin.
And Awe over our bodies and feet that carried us and moved us up and down, over and around.
What an adventure!
Day 4 – Point Franklin to Aire River (approx. 14km)
We woke to a misty rain, nothing to dampen our spirits but enough to freshen our senses. By the time we had arrived at Port Franklin (our start point for the day), the weather had cleared. It was time for our daily team pic – 3 fingers for our 3rd day on the trail), and off we went.
It was a shorter walk ahead as we made our way to Aire River – 14km, six less than the previous day. Our bodies were ready!
Following the sandy trail, we meandered through Melaleuca forest to reach Cape Otway Lighthouse. Constructed in 1848, this is the oldest surviving lighthouse on the mainland! Over the past 177 years, the original (whale) oil lamps were replaced with kerosene lanterns, then with the arrival of electricity, diesel generators were installed nearby, and 1000-watt globes were used in the lanterns. More recently, the Lighthouse was replaced in 1994 by a smaller solar-powered light beacon (with mains backup) and six 35-watt globes. In 1848, the original light could be seen 48km away and would aid ships as they attempted to navigate the passage between Cape Otway and King Island. Nowadays, the light does not illuminate as far, but at 30km, it remains an important navigation guide after dark. The history of the Lighthouse and its main Head Keeper, Henry Bayles Ford, is fascinating, plus the café makes great coffee, so the visit was definitely a worthwhile interruption to our walking day 🙂
Back onto the trail, the soft and sandy secret passages wrapped around us, showing whispers of wildlife thriving in the thick coastal bushland on either side. We didn’t see any echidna today, but their foraging digs for ants created little excavations in the sand bank on the edges of our path. It would be a smorgasbord for them with ants of all sizes, beetles and moth larvae. Fortunately, there were no danger-noodles (aka snakes), although their imprint was left in the soft sand. The joys of a beautiful firetail and many types of native bush foods distracted us as we walked. And then there were the views that make the inclines and declines so worth it! Vista upon vista, each just as spectacular as the last, if not more so!
The secret passages, Tea-tree forest and Emu bush open to striking cliff lines where the mighty expanse of the Southern Ocean unleashes her power against the rock. These intervals from the sheltered track offering gulps of freshness and salt spray on our faces. We are alive!
And on we go towards Aire River, where we spot the bus on our distant approach. It was an earlier finish, giving us a few hours for downtime before burger night and apple crumble. Yum!
Day 5 – Aire River to Milanesia Track (approx. 20km)
We’ve now walked approximately 64km and are two-thirds of the way along the Great Ocean Walk. Today was all about those STUNNING coastal views!
Following grassy tracks where a wallaby grazes before entering an enchanted pathway arched with sprawling Sheoak branches. Then native shrubs and bushes, so well manicured it feels as though we are winding our way around the corridors of a tall hedged maze.
The coast is there somewhere. We hear the boom of the waves, creating a distant soundtrack that echoes louder as we draw nearer. More Melaleuca, Sheoak, and the most impressive field of Xanthorrhoea grasses blanketing the forest floor!
On we walk. Today is another long day on our Great Ocean Walk Adventure, with about 20km to cover between our starting point and the day’s destination. The weather gods continue to bless us with beautiful, clear, sunny days, and the scenery is just so magnificent. Views up and down the coastline, over sand, across rock, along boardwalks and through forests. Those narrow ‘walk the plank’ pirate-style boardwalks force our focus into the present, less our step goes astray and we roll an ankle or damage the delicate ecosystem beneath our feet. The stark white pebbled terrain contrasts brilliantly with what came before it. Lisa met us for lunch and brought a thermos for tea and coffee. The option is for anyone to travel with her if they’ve had enough for the day. But we’re a resilient bunch! And that cuppa was just the pep-up we needed for what lay ahead.
We reach Johanna Beach, and the powerful surf desperately tries to swallow those who dare to wade near. Sand walking is not a favourite, but we had 2km to cover, so it was shoes off, and onward we went. Walking in the footsteps of those who have gone before us. Compacting the sand with our prints to hopefully lighten the load. Each of us showed another the way while also desperately seeking a match to our gait.
Off the beach, we head inland, and the day’s finale was met with an almighty incline up to Milanesia Track. Relentlessly stretching out beyond each bend, on and on we stepped. One foot in front of the other, resting as much as needed, taking our time, appreciating the support of our walking poles, and for some, spotting an echidna on the edge of the trail was a lovely distraction.
Lisa’s beaming face meant the bus was nearby, and we summoned a few more steps. Our journey along the Great Ocean Walk had now brought us closer to the Twelve Apostles, so we had packed up our Apollo Bay accommodation before setting off for the day, and now we were returning to our new base in Port Campbell – the Southern Ocean Villas.
Day 6 – Milanesia Track to The Gable (approx. 20km)
There’s no opting out partway today. From Milanesia Track to The Gable, we cover another 20ish km of remote and isolated coastline. Those who begin the trail must walk all the way through, and in the typical fashion of this group, we were committed.
Up some stairs, then down some other stairs, slow and steady we go. Some stairs are chiselled and manmade from embedded stone, some are timber, some are compacted earth, and some are of nature’s creation. Gnarly tree roots from sprawling Sheoak intersperse grass and soft Melaleuca forest floors. The blues of the ocean and sky contrast against every hue of green scattered across the hilly slopes. These greens are becoming more and more luminous each day. Our senses heightened and tuned in as though our hydration bladders were spiked with psychedelics. But this is a hiker’s high and Nature’s gift, an addiction to be sure!
Wildlife peeking their heads out as our merry bunch pass by. Or we hear rustling as they scurry into the bushes, and all the while, we keep our fingers crossed for more rustling than slithering…
Tall gum trees and steep inclines – up, down, up, down. What goes up must come down, what goes down must come up… on we walk. Thankful with every step that it isn’t raining, the dry ground making the steep declines less treacherous.
The shadows grow long as the afternoon passes until, eventually, we reach The Gable Lookout. This is one of mainland Australia’s highest sea cliff areas and our meet point with Lisa. It’s time to return to our villas and a feast of pasta Bolognese (plus a vegan option), followed by sticky date pudding! Just what the doctor ordered!!
Day 7 – The Gable to Gellibrand River (approx. 12km)
Our daily routine continues—walk, eat, sleep, repeat. Back in the ‘real world’, it’s easy to become consumed by the busyness and forget the simplicities of life. Our routine could become a meditation of sorts, blending to create days of mindfulness. It’s no wonder walking and time in nature have so many proven benefits. Their medicine is healing.
Tiger balm, kunzea lotion, electrolytes, and magnesium are now shared during our lunch breaks. And who’s got dibs on the communal massage gun over dinner (thank you, Tracy, for bringing it with you from WA). Lisa’s home-baked goodies hit the spot every time. A stash in the trail snack bag and more are up for grabs on the bus as we go home to our villas in Port Campbell.
Today’s walk was shorter, offering our tired legs a little reprieve. From The Gable to Gellibrand River, it was an easier 12ish km with a couple of extra little wanders here and there.
You can understand why this area is nicknamed ‘Shipwreck Coast’ and why, long ago, Matthew Flinders described it as a “most fearful section of coastline”. Approximately 638 ships have fallen victim to the elements and unforgiving seas along this stretch of coast, and only 240 of these have been discovered. Among those known are the Marie Gabrielle and Fiji – two shipwrecks from the late 1800s whose ghostly anchors are reachable at low tide along Wreck Beach.
The beach is bordered by towering cliffs and can only be accessed by visitors at low tide via a steep set of 366 steps. The tides didn’t allow us access, but that didn’t deter us from peering down from the top and visiting the memorial of the Fiji. The memorial is also the gravesite of some of those who drowned during the ship’s sinking. Looking down through the harsh scrub-lined cliff, it was sobering to imagine the incredible feat of the survivors as they endured a climb that surely tested them as much as the shipwreck itself!
One more walking day to go.
Day 8 – Gellibrand River to Twelve Apostles & Loch Ard Gorge (approx. 9km)
Today was our last day on the trail – our Great Ocean Walk Adventure is nearly over. We made our way from Gellibrand River to the Twelve Apostles, and on this final 9km stretch, we each reflected on our achievements. What a beautiful coastline this is, and what a marvellous walk this has been. 100+ km over seven days. We made it, and what an incredible journey we have had!!!
Today’s walk seemed to disappear quickly, and before we knew it, we were slowing down our approach into civilisation and the heavily touristed Twelve Apostles visitor centre. Savouring those final moments as we adopt a leisurely pace while exploring the remaining eight of these geological marvels. One day, the elements will claim them all, and perhaps a new creation will emerge as the wind, rain, and swell continue to erode the rocky coastline. We linger here, none of us rushing as we integrate with the crowds and enjoy each vantage point offered from the massive walkways and platforms that hug the coast around these magnificent limestone stacks.
Slowly, we peel ourselves away, and Lisa drives us to Loch Ard Gorge. It’s an impressive sight, as are the wonderous attractions that followed on our optional side trip. London Bridge, The Grotto, and Bay of Martyrs. These three additional marvels are very much worth experiencing!
We celebrated tonight with dinner out at a popular local eatery. Our Great Ocean Walk Adventure is over! We are so grateful to our bodies. These feet have carried us throughout the days, our legs carefully placing each step and our walking poles an extension of our arms. Our bodies have endured with aching muscles and tired limbs, and we are lucky that they enable us to explore such wild places. And we are ever so thankful to Mother Nature for turning on the most sensational weather!
Additional Reading
Big Heart Adventures is a commercial tour operator (CTO). Registered to lead walking adventures throughout South Australia, Australia and overseas. We offer fully guided walking tours and self-guided walking adventures.
Read our full Great Ocean Walk Adventure itinerary and see our next departure dates here
You can see our World Walks walks here
Read more about ‘Big Heart Adventures’ and our wellness walks
Get information on our women’s walking group ‘Wise Women Walking’
We look forward to sharing a Big Heart Adventures Walking Experience with you!
